An amazing journey (Olsztyn, PL)
One of my favourite quotes, from the movie "Out of Africa' states: " Perhaps the earth was made round so we couldn't see too far ahead". This is very apt, as in my life and especially on these trips things can (and do) change very quickly. After the previous days' hardships, I was more than a little apprehensive about setting out from Olecko, but somewhere at the back of mind still hoped to make the 165 km to Olsztyn in one day. I have covered that sort of distances in the past, but with a lot more training under my belt and ideal conditions. This time, I had only a vague idea what the terrain or weather would be like, and knew that a more realistic goal would be somewhere around the usual 110 km mark.
Just as the previous day had been full of bad omens, things that made me irritable and discontented, this morning I seemed to notice only sights that made me smile. There were baby storks trying their wings but still shy to leave the safety of the nest, mares with their foals lying flat on their sides in the morning sun, there was a young fox crossing the road, beautiful deep forests and countless lakes, and all this with very little traffic and absolutely no trucks. In a very short while, my mood changed from brooding to giddy happiness, and as the cycling was going well, soon decided to try and make it to Olsztyn after all.
My route was undoubtedly the most beautiful of this trip so far, and the first half was truly enjoyable. However, it was also by far the most strenuous, as there were countless uphills and the density of traffic kept steadily increasing. Somewhere after 80 km, I was riding on a very busy road with absolutely no shoulder and big trucks passing so close that I felt nauseous with fear. Still, this was the only way out of here, and as the evening progressed the traffic started to ease off.
With only about 40 km left to Olsztyn, I was well on schedule for arriving before dark. Then, all of a sudden, the already quite big road turned into a highway with a no-cycling sign, and I was forced to look for an alternative route. With a slight detour (or so it seemed) I was able to approach the city on small backcountry roads... only to notice that they took me into a deep forest, with more uphills and the worst tarmac surface one can imagine. Thus, what should have taken me less than two hours turned into the slowest part of the trip, and this after 125km already behind me!
However, for once, there was absolutely no traffic, and I was free to look for my way around the potholes, deep enough to break the bike, should I accidentally ride into one. The amazing thing was, in the middle of this seemingly inhabited forest there were villages with shops, churches and kids playing on the road. I never felt in any way alarmed by the wilderness, and all the people I passed smiled kindly and greeted me. Now I remembered why I had loved Poland so much on my previous bike trip: people treat visitors, especially those travelling in this way, with utmost kindness and consideration, and I always feel that should I need any help, they would come to my aid.
When I finally made it out of the forest, with a long downhill roll behind me, it was already well into dusk and I still had another 18 km to cover, and yes, I would have to do it on the busy highway. I can safely say that it was the scariest of all my experiences cycling so far. I do have a reflective vest, flashing tail light and headlight, but the fast approaching darkness made me painfully aware of how vulnerable a cyclist is among traffic when the daylight is gone. To top it all up, the foot cramps that have kept appearing towards the end of days now came back, only stronger than before, and there were times when it felt like my toes were going to fall off!
With just enough light left to read the map without a torch, I finally entered Olsztyn, and not a moment too soon. It was 21.30 and I had truly given everything I had to give for one day of cycling. My cellphone battery was almost flat, but managed to contact Jakub who kindly came to my rescue, fetching me from the city centre. Am now at his place, having rested for over 12 hours, and although by no means ready cycle today, just about to go out for a walk, and later - dancing.
Riding on an unfinished highway, surely the widest bike lane I will ever have! :-)
Just as the previous day had been full of bad omens, things that made me irritable and discontented, this morning I seemed to notice only sights that made me smile. There were baby storks trying their wings but still shy to leave the safety of the nest, mares with their foals lying flat on their sides in the morning sun, there was a young fox crossing the road, beautiful deep forests and countless lakes, and all this with very little traffic and absolutely no trucks. In a very short while, my mood changed from brooding to giddy happiness, and as the cycling was going well, soon decided to try and make it to Olsztyn after all.
My route was undoubtedly the most beautiful of this trip so far, and the first half was truly enjoyable. However, it was also by far the most strenuous, as there were countless uphills and the density of traffic kept steadily increasing. Somewhere after 80 km, I was riding on a very busy road with absolutely no shoulder and big trucks passing so close that I felt nauseous with fear. Still, this was the only way out of here, and as the evening progressed the traffic started to ease off.
With only about 40 km left to Olsztyn, I was well on schedule for arriving before dark. Then, all of a sudden, the already quite big road turned into a highway with a no-cycling sign, and I was forced to look for an alternative route. With a slight detour (or so it seemed) I was able to approach the city on small backcountry roads... only to notice that they took me into a deep forest, with more uphills and the worst tarmac surface one can imagine. Thus, what should have taken me less than two hours turned into the slowest part of the trip, and this after 125km already behind me!
Inside the forest.
However, for once, there was absolutely no traffic, and I was free to look for my way around the potholes, deep enough to break the bike, should I accidentally ride into one. The amazing thing was, in the middle of this seemingly inhabited forest there were villages with shops, churches and kids playing on the road. I never felt in any way alarmed by the wilderness, and all the people I passed smiled kindly and greeted me. Now I remembered why I had loved Poland so much on my previous bike trip: people treat visitors, especially those travelling in this way, with utmost kindness and consideration, and I always feel that should I need any help, they would come to my aid.
Flirting with the local guys in front of a village shop somewhere in the middle of the forest.
When I finally made it out of the forest, with a long downhill roll behind me, it was already well into dusk and I still had another 18 km to cover, and yes, I would have to do it on the busy highway. I can safely say that it was the scariest of all my experiences cycling so far. I do have a reflective vest, flashing tail light and headlight, but the fast approaching darkness made me painfully aware of how vulnerable a cyclist is among traffic when the daylight is gone. To top it all up, the foot cramps that have kept appearing towards the end of days now came back, only stronger than before, and there were times when it felt like my toes were going to fall off!
With just enough light left to read the map without a torch, I finally entered Olsztyn, and not a moment too soon. It was 21.30 and I had truly given everything I had to give for one day of cycling. My cellphone battery was almost flat, but managed to contact Jakub who kindly came to my rescue, fetching me from the city centre. Am now at his place, having rested for over 12 hours, and although by no means ready cycle today, just about to go out for a walk, and later - dancing.
ONNELLISENA JA KIITOLLISENA LUIN KUVAUKSESI! TOIVOTAN ONNEA EDELLEEN.
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