The charm of the Danube (Vác)
And so, after 10 days of cycling, I am now almost within shouting distance of Budapest. What remains is 35 km of winding bike track, hugging the side of the now slowly, almost dreamily flowing river. The sky has a few scattered clouds that at this hour (11am) still offer some shelter from the heat that is set to climbing up to 40 degrees as the day progresses.
Knowing there would be little escape from the sun, I set off from the campsite at 7, stopping in the centre of Esztergom only long enough to get some groceries for breakfast. A minor problem arose at the campsite reception, when the same guy who had refused to charge me when I arrived last night, saying I would have to wait until the morning, now said the reception would only open at 9. Now this was Far too late for me, as it would mean I would have to cycle the whole 80 kms in the already merciless heat. So, what to do?
I simply put on my tour leader mode, the one that was once needed to keep my safari staff operational, and told the guy that this was impossible, I was leaving now and I was going tol pay him. (The fact that he had my passport made things a little more complicated, otherwise I could have just cycled off). He tried, in vain, to gesticulate towards the notice on the wall stating the office hours, but I would have none of it. Poor guy, he didn't stand much of a chance against such a determined opponent!
Once I was on the road, it quickly became obvious that this part of the journey was a real delight, like a cherry on an already we delicious and beautiful cake. The river, having once again changed its colour to a more familiar dark green, is flowing majestically in a wide, peaceful stream. Here and there, sandbanks are sticking out of the water, and on both banks, there are lush forests filled with birdsong. For most of the way, there has been a recently paved bike track separated from the main road, running right next to the river.
Despite some headwind, the going is effortless, and as there are few other cyclists, I am mostly alone with my thoughts.
As always at this part of a journey, my thoughts are turning to the lessons learned, the wonderful memories, the difficulties and finally, to the people that have accompanied me, whether in thought or in person, during it. Following a river in its natural direction gives a certain clarity and purpose to one's journey, and seeing the way it changes during its course has made me more willing to accept the changes that take place in me too. It has been my fifth bike trip of this kind, and despite being the shortest, I feel I have learned much more than on many others.
The main lesson is without a doubt that of acceptance. When I was battling with the terrible knee pain and afraid this would be the end of my bike travel, a new understanding arose in me. I realised that even if that happened, it would only be difficult to deal with if I focused on what I couldn't do anymore.
There will always be things that I am not up to, but also, if I change my focus, new vistas waiting for my attention. I can enjoy so many things, get pleasure from so many things I never even considered. The choice is mine: Do I lament what was left behind, or go with the flow and see what is behind the next bend of the river?
Knowing there would be little escape from the sun, I set off from the campsite at 7, stopping in the centre of Esztergom only long enough to get some groceries for breakfast. A minor problem arose at the campsite reception, when the same guy who had refused to charge me when I arrived last night, saying I would have to wait until the morning, now said the reception would only open at 9. Now this was Far too late for me, as it would mean I would have to cycle the whole 80 kms in the already merciless heat. So, what to do?
I simply put on my tour leader mode, the one that was once needed to keep my safari staff operational, and told the guy that this was impossible, I was leaving now and I was going tol pay him. (The fact that he had my passport made things a little more complicated, otherwise I could have just cycled off). He tried, in vain, to gesticulate towards the notice on the wall stating the office hours, but I would have none of it. Poor guy, he didn't stand much of a chance against such a determined opponent!
Once I was on the road, it quickly became obvious that this part of the journey was a real delight, like a cherry on an already we delicious and beautiful cake. The river, having once again changed its colour to a more familiar dark green, is flowing majestically in a wide, peaceful stream. Here and there, sandbanks are sticking out of the water, and on both banks, there are lush forests filled with birdsong. For most of the way, there has been a recently paved bike track separated from the main road, running right next to the river.
Despite some headwind, the going is effortless, and as there are few other cyclists, I am mostly alone with my thoughts.
As always at this part of a journey, my thoughts are turning to the lessons learned, the wonderful memories, the difficulties and finally, to the people that have accompanied me, whether in thought or in person, during it. Following a river in its natural direction gives a certain clarity and purpose to one's journey, and seeing the way it changes during its course has made me more willing to accept the changes that take place in me too. It has been my fifth bike trip of this kind, and despite being the shortest, I feel I have learned much more than on many others.
The main lesson is without a doubt that of acceptance. When I was battling with the terrible knee pain and afraid this would be the end of my bike travel, a new understanding arose in me. I realised that even if that happened, it would only be difficult to deal with if I focused on what I couldn't do anymore.
There will always be things that I am not up to, but also, if I change my focus, new vistas waiting for my attention. I can enjoy so many things, get pleasure from so many things I never even considered. The choice is mine: Do I lament what was left behind, or go with the flow and see what is behind the next bend of the river?
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