Love at first sight (Bratislava, Slovakia)
ByYesterday showed me once again the rewards of leaving the familiar and heading for the unknown. Despite my initial reluctance to bget back on the bike, the cycling turned out to be effortless, light and joyful. Getting back to the riverside from the Favoriten suburb was the hardest part, and despite having made careful notes on each turn, of course I missed one of them. With pure luck, and following the general direction of downhill (I mean, rivers seldom run on top of the hills do they?) did finally get to the Danube, and from there on, it was a very straightforward journey all the way to Bratislava.
By now, I know that when everything is straightforward and easy, that's when the mistakes happen. Sailing along in the powerful tailwind, not even minding the drizzle that was picking up intensity, I ignored a sign for a turnoff, and the next moment, found myself on a paved embankment flanking the river. This in itself was nothing new , but the fact that there were no fences between me and the 5-m drops to the river did for a moment make me wonder...but not enough to check the route. So, I rode on, on what turned into a mooring jetty for oil tankers as it started to pour down with rain. The win that had been strong all along now became gusty, and I had to take care not to ride too close to the edge, lest a particularly strong gust would push me over it. And then, naturally, the jetty ended, and I was standing at the end of a peninsula with absolutely no way forward. It was literally p*ssing down with rain, and to get back, I would need to fight the wind.
I just laughed at myself, got off the bike and pushed it under a large tree that was mercifully offering some shelter from the torrent. Being in such good moods and knowing I had time, I just stood there, munching my emergency snacks and waiting out the rain.
The rest of the journey was uneventful, crossing a nature park filled with the kind of birdsong you only hear after rain. The road was almost totally straight for nearly 30 km, and despite the beautiful surrounding beauty, my mind did take a while to adapt to it, at first complaining that it was boring, uninteresting and dull. However, when I finally came to the other end of the park and the road bent for the first time, I felt a strange sadness. Riding that long straight stretch, surrounded only by birdsong and lush forest, had been like a soothing lullaby, and I realised how much one needs such moments of calm. It felt a bit like starting to read a book after watching mindless tv series; at first your mind is restlessly darting from one thought to the next, refusing to focus , but if you persist, it calms down and starts to enjoy.
Getting to Bratislava, still on a paved, well-marked bike path, was the final discovery of the day. I had absolutely no impression on the city, and was totally unprepared for the vibrant, bustling and happy atmosphere that received me the moment I pushed my bike to the narrow, winding streets of the old town. The change in mood from Austria, only 6 km away, was remarkable: There was a lot of laughter, happy faces were looking at me with curiosity, and nobody seemed concerned with rules or order. The streets were full of young, beautiful people, but as opposed to some other places where I have seen such a high concentration of beauty, there was no tension, competition or resentment in the air. In sort, I immediately loved the city.
At night, having found my hostel and deposited my gear, I went for a glass of wine in the old town, giggling to myself from the joy of discovery. I already felt a little regretful for not being able to stay longer, as the temperature is set to climb again and getting to Budapest by Friday is going to be strenuous.
Still, finding a new favourite is always thrilling. Thinking of future trips, Bratislava is a place to remember!
By now, I know that when everything is straightforward and easy, that's when the mistakes happen. Sailing along in the powerful tailwind, not even minding the drizzle that was picking up intensity, I ignored a sign for a turnoff, and the next moment, found myself on a paved embankment flanking the river. This in itself was nothing new , but the fact that there were no fences between me and the 5-m drops to the river did for a moment make me wonder...but not enough to check the route. So, I rode on, on what turned into a mooring jetty for oil tankers as it started to pour down with rain. The win that had been strong all along now became gusty, and I had to take care not to ride too close to the edge, lest a particularly strong gust would push me over it. And then, naturally, the jetty ended, and I was standing at the end of a peninsula with absolutely no way forward. It was literally p*ssing down with rain, and to get back, I would need to fight the wind.
I just laughed at myself, got off the bike and pushed it under a large tree that was mercifully offering some shelter from the torrent. Being in such good moods and knowing I had time, I just stood there, munching my emergency snacks and waiting out the rain.
The rest of the journey was uneventful, crossing a nature park filled with the kind of birdsong you only hear after rain. The road was almost totally straight for nearly 30 km, and despite the beautiful surrounding beauty, my mind did take a while to adapt to it, at first complaining that it was boring, uninteresting and dull. However, when I finally came to the other end of the park and the road bent for the first time, I felt a strange sadness. Riding that long straight stretch, surrounded only by birdsong and lush forest, had been like a soothing lullaby, and I realised how much one needs such moments of calm. It felt a bit like starting to read a book after watching mindless tv series; at first your mind is restlessly darting from one thought to the next, refusing to focus , but if you persist, it calms down and starts to enjoy.
Getting to Bratislava, still on a paved, well-marked bike path, was the final discovery of the day. I had absolutely no impression on the city, and was totally unprepared for the vibrant, bustling and happy atmosphere that received me the moment I pushed my bike to the narrow, winding streets of the old town. The change in mood from Austria, only 6 km away, was remarkable: There was a lot of laughter, happy faces were looking at me with curiosity, and nobody seemed concerned with rules or order. The streets were full of young, beautiful people, but as opposed to some other places where I have seen such a high concentration of beauty, there was no tension, competition or resentment in the air. In sort, I immediately loved the city.
At night, having found my hostel and deposited my gear, I went for a glass of wine in the old town, giggling to myself from the joy of discovery. I already felt a little regretful for not being able to stay longer, as the temperature is set to climb again and getting to Budapest by Friday is going to be strenuous.
Still, finding a new favourite is always thrilling. Thinking of future trips, Bratislava is a place to remember!
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