Boiling hot (Rostock)
Well my Friends, here I am, in Rostock once again. Just like for last year's trip, the final leg of the journey will be covered by boat that leaves from this harbour city some time in the early morning hours. This time, however, I made the journey both ways under my own steam, not relying on the train to get me back from wherever I had managed to get during the previous weeks. It was the right decision, as this way I feel more content, having really covered the ground myself.
Today's journey was exhausting, though. The temperature that had not been that cool during the past week, was forecasted to soar up to 36 degrees, and it certainly made the going quite hard. Expecting this, for once I managed to do the sensible thing and got up early, setting out from the campsite already at 8. This meant that I had a few hours of relatively pleasant temperatures before it got really hot. Additionally, I was lucky to have the loveliest, gentle but firm tail wind the whole day, meaning that even the long and steady uphills were just a breeze. At one point, I even thought I was approaching the rare state of 'flow', where kilometres just flow past effortlessly and no amount of physical hardship seems to affect it. However, once the midday heat really set in, I was quickly reminded that I am indeed human and quite vulnerable in terms of what my body can do. Still, the fact that by 11 am I had already covered about 60 km is not that bad, even if I say so myself!
In the afternoon, I took refuge from the merciless sun at a lakeside, hiding in the shade until the fiercest temparatures had receded. As I had left home in such a hurry that I did not even bring a bikini (with the freezing temperatures in May it hardly seemed necessary), I had to resort to a swimming in my underwear, but took comfort in the fact that being black it just COULD be a bikini, and besides, these people will never see me again so who cares if they disapprove?
Sitting in the shade, letting my thoughts roam freely, I found myself thinking about Germany and how I feel about it this time around. As I told you in my earlier post, my previous experiences (22 years ago) in this country were not very positive, and after a long time of avoiding the place I had now decided to give it another chance. Now, after more than a month traversing Germany I have very mixed feelings about it. On the one hand, Germany has proved to be a lot more varied, interesting and beautiful than I had ever thought it was, and I have met some really wonderful people here (you Germans who are reading this, are all among them!! :-). But, to be perfectly honest, I cannot really say that my initial impression about German mentality and society as a whole has been changed to any greater degree.
It occurred to me yesterday that the German flag is actually an apt metaphore to the national psyche. Think about it: on top, there is a looming, black, impenetrable cloud that makes most people look either bored, anguished or deprieved of something really important. Directly underneath, showing itself with great suddenness, there is a lot of anger, hostility, rage even, that is aptly described by the red in the flag. I have seen several cases of traffic rage, mostly stemming from situations where someone has the audacity to criticise another driver, however rightly. Similarly, the reaction to any, however minor, breach of regulations is often met with totally disproportionate displays of anger, hooting, shouting and screeching breaks, even if there really is no need, no lives are in danger and they could just let the situation pass. It really puzzles me, and the only explanation I can think of is that as everybody is so busy trying to live according to the regulations, they cannot tolerate it at all when somebody doesnt.
Finally, underneath these layers of stony faces and sudden bursts of anger, there is also tenderness, joy, playfulness even, symbolised by the yellow in the flag. However, it only manifests itself in rare occasions or among friends (for sure, I have met people displaying a lot of these qualities in milongas all over Germany). A perfect example is the totally out of proportion jubilation that takes place after each German victory (so far, they have won all their matches) in the current football World Cup. It is totally incredible; streets fill up with people out of their minds with joy, shouting, singing, dancing, drinking... Judging by the intensity, you would think they already won the final, and this after each game! To be perfectly honest, it is also a little bit scary, as the sights of large gangs of raucous, drunken youths wrapped in German flags and shouting 'Deutchland, Deutchland!!' is somewhat reminicent of other times and other occasions.
Another sign of this softer side to the national psyche is that Germans really seem to like their dogs. This for me is no small issue at all, and I do see it as a sign of potential for compassion. But why, oh why, is it so seldom manifested in the every day situations?
My dear Germans, I apologise if these observations, totally subjective as they are, seem insulting or unjust. I can assure you that I am not blaming you for anything, and as I said, I have also met some really nice people here. The thing is, in Germany there only seem to be two kinds of people; those who are really friendly and those who are really rude. In between, there is nothing.
Am writing this in an internet cafe in downtown Rostock, having had a snack and a huge piece of cake in the same cafe where I finished last year's tour. I find it quite funny how I tend to go back to the same places, even if they are in no way different from all the other similar cafes, bars and the like. Perhaps that just shows that although I claim to love the unexpected so much, secretly I am actually craving for the comforting familiarity of places and people that I have seen before?
The campsite in Röbel.
Today's journey was exhausting, though. The temperature that had not been that cool during the past week, was forecasted to soar up to 36 degrees, and it certainly made the going quite hard. Expecting this, for once I managed to do the sensible thing and got up early, setting out from the campsite already at 8. This meant that I had a few hours of relatively pleasant temperatures before it got really hot. Additionally, I was lucky to have the loveliest, gentle but firm tail wind the whole day, meaning that even the long and steady uphills were just a breeze. At one point, I even thought I was approaching the rare state of 'flow', where kilometres just flow past effortlessly and no amount of physical hardship seems to affect it. However, once the midday heat really set in, I was quickly reminded that I am indeed human and quite vulnerable in terms of what my body can do. Still, the fact that by 11 am I had already covered about 60 km is not that bad, even if I say so myself!
In the afternoon, I took refuge from the merciless sun at a lakeside, hiding in the shade until the fiercest temparatures had receded. As I had left home in such a hurry that I did not even bring a bikini (with the freezing temperatures in May it hardly seemed necessary), I had to resort to a swimming in my underwear, but took comfort in the fact that being black it just COULD be a bikini, and besides, these people will never see me again so who cares if they disapprove?
It occurred to me yesterday that the German flag is actually an apt metaphore to the national psyche. Think about it: on top, there is a looming, black, impenetrable cloud that makes most people look either bored, anguished or deprieved of something really important. Directly underneath, showing itself with great suddenness, there is a lot of anger, hostility, rage even, that is aptly described by the red in the flag. I have seen several cases of traffic rage, mostly stemming from situations where someone has the audacity to criticise another driver, however rightly. Similarly, the reaction to any, however minor, breach of regulations is often met with totally disproportionate displays of anger, hooting, shouting and screeching breaks, even if there really is no need, no lives are in danger and they could just let the situation pass. It really puzzles me, and the only explanation I can think of is that as everybody is so busy trying to live according to the regulations, they cannot tolerate it at all when somebody doesnt.
The cobbled streets, one of my biggest physical hurdles in the Eastern parts of Germany. It seems they have been built with the explicit purpose of slowing you down, as the gaps between stones are enourmous!
Finally, underneath these layers of stony faces and sudden bursts of anger, there is also tenderness, joy, playfulness even, symbolised by the yellow in the flag. However, it only manifests itself in rare occasions or among friends (for sure, I have met people displaying a lot of these qualities in milongas all over Germany). A perfect example is the totally out of proportion jubilation that takes place after each German victory (so far, they have won all their matches) in the current football World Cup. It is totally incredible; streets fill up with people out of their minds with joy, shouting, singing, dancing, drinking... Judging by the intensity, you would think they already won the final, and this after each game! To be perfectly honest, it is also a little bit scary, as the sights of large gangs of raucous, drunken youths wrapped in German flags and shouting 'Deutchland, Deutchland!!' is somewhat reminicent of other times and other occasions.
Another sign of this softer side to the national psyche is that Germans really seem to like their dogs. This for me is no small issue at all, and I do see it as a sign of potential for compassion. But why, oh why, is it so seldom manifested in the every day situations?
My dear Germans, I apologise if these observations, totally subjective as they are, seem insulting or unjust. I can assure you that I am not blaming you for anything, and as I said, I have also met some really nice people here. The thing is, in Germany there only seem to be two kinds of people; those who are really friendly and those who are really rude. In between, there is nothing.
Am writing this in an internet cafe in downtown Rostock, having had a snack and a huge piece of cake in the same cafe where I finished last year's tour. I find it quite funny how I tend to go back to the same places, even if they are in no way different from all the other similar cafes, bars and the like. Perhaps that just shows that although I claim to love the unexpected so much, secretly I am actually craving for the comforting familiarity of places and people that I have seen before?
In Rostock, with the customary piece of cake :-).
Am just about to get back on the bike to ride the remaining 10 km to the harbour. This time around, I splurged for a cabin as I just could not stomach another journey spent on the floor of that airless conference room with tens of other backpackers. Am actually really looking forward to the comfort of a bunk with sheets, and a proper breakfast tomorrow morning! For entertainment, I bought Carla del Ponti's book (in German!) about her time as the prosecutor in the International Tribunal for War Criminals in the Hague, have already started it and really impressed. In addition, I'll obviously be listening to a lot of tango, as well as probably continuing with the audio book 'A Thousand Splendid Suns' that, despite being a world-wide bestseller, has not really managed to captivate me.
Will probably only be sending an update about the sea journey when I get to Helsinki, as there is only occasional network for my mobile during the sea journey. I will take this opportunity to ponder on my journey into tango and what it has taught me about myself.
On ollut mukava lukea matkaasi liittyviä tapahtumia. Hyvää mieltä ja tervetuloa turvallisesti kotiin pitkältä seikkailulta! Kahvitellaan, kuullaan ja nähdään jossain vaiheessa kesällä!
ReplyDeleteTervetuloa kotiin tai ainakin jo Koti-Suomen kamaralle.
ReplyDeleteBlogijuttusi oli monta kertaa lohduttamassa ainakin minua ikävän yllättäessä. Kiitollisena